For the Chronicle
New bites in the Big Easy
Fledgling eateries spark a fresh New Orleans dining scene
By RENÉE KIENTZ

Cochon
The scene at Cochon, a few miles away in the Warehouse District, is a bit more raucous. Instead of the light clink of wineglasses and cozy conversation, there's the sound of wood chairs scraping concrete floors, happy laughter and kitchen bustle.

Open only five months, Cochon (French for "pig") is the inspiration of chefs and co-owners Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski. The menu elevates what basically is Louisiana country cooking to a more sophisticated plane. Creating an in-house boucherie, the pair produces their own specialty meats, including andouille sausage, smoked bacon and boudin.

A wood-burning oven turns out delectable roasted oysters on the half shell, the flavors of lemon, garlic, butter and red pepper melding to produce an appetizer diners fight over. The two guys at the next table on a recent visit rock-paper-scissored for the right to eat the fifth and final oyster on the little plate.

Tapas-size appetizers are part of the philosophy at Cochon, and most tables order several. But the entrees are nicely portioned and fine, especially the namesake Louisiana cochon. Starring tender roast pork surrounded by bits of sweet peaches, cabbage and morsels of crisp house-made cracklins, the dish is a revelation.

Cochon's rabbit stew, full of flavor and spätzle-like dumplings, caught the heart of a New York Times writer, who gave it and the restaurant high marks for finally bringing good Cajun food to a city more known for Creole cuisine.

Accolades aren't new to Link, who was nominated for Best Chef in the Southeast Region by the James Beard Foundation and whose nearby restaurant Herbsaint continues to draw an appreciative crowd. A Lake Charles native, Link brings his Cajun heritage and experience gained in California restaurants, as well as Susan Spicer's kitchen at Bayona in New Orleans' French Quarter.

His co-chef/co-owner, Stryjewski is also a veteran of California kitchens, as well as New Orleans institution Commander's Palace. He met Link when he went to work at Herbsaint. The two hit it off and have brought their mutual strengths to Cochon, which quickly has become one of the most popular places in the Warehouse District.

Link lost his house to Katrina and had to close Herbsaint for a month; Cochon's opening was delayed. But luck was on their side, says Stryjewski. Hardly touched by Katrina, the Warehouse District has become a booming neighborhood, its many lofts and apartments now filled by New Orleanians chased from their homes.

Though the restaurant gets an occasional tourist, most chairs are filled by locals in search of a good meal in a feel-good setting. Cochon's urban Cajun cooking manages to be comforting and exciting at the same time. The well-stocked bar, featuring 17 different bourbons and moonshine by the glass, doesn't hurt. Cochon offers a fine mint julep (surprisingly hard to find in New Orleans) and the refreshing Cochon Lemonade, which pairs the perfect summer beverage with a smooth shot of Jim Beam.